Avoid it, except for highlights in foreground in which yellow lemon+thalo blue can represent light reflecting in grass, but use it with supreme caution.įinally, look at Will Kemp making greens from yellow lemon: It is quite instructive. In the same train is thalo blue/cyan which mixes so well with yellow that it produces “boiling pot of acid” looking greens. That being told, some of the cobalt hues (or the real deal) can produce wonderful luminance in water, doubly so if you are painting ponds a la Monet. There are some wonderful mixtures there, but I would still avoid it for most of landscape greens for the ironic reason that they mix too well with yellow and the resulting greens are too vivid to be believable. ![]() when painting skies is what colors will you be mixing with the blues and. Cobalt blue hue is an arbitrary mix by vendors. On a clear sunny day, the sky could be a light Cobalt Blue at the top of your. And in this case it is probably your enemy as you don’t want that kind of luminosity in greens. One of the most useful greens for landscapes might already be in your palette: yellow ochre (or maybe even yellow lemon) plus either black, payne’s gray or burnt/raw umber produce a very muted green which is quite realistic.Ĭobalt blue has one advantage over all the other blues: luminosity. Similarly, there is “permanent” green, which is a substitute to the old cadmium green (an expensive mixture of cadmium lemon yellow + cobalt blue back in the day) and now made from yellow+blue, for example PY3 + thalo blue GS. Add a small amount of your mixing color to your blue hue, to begin. Cobalt blue is a lighter blue and is also a good color to have to help you to achieve cooler shades of blue. Sap green is PG8 and not a convenience mixture but since it performs rather badly in tints many companies now make it as a mixture. A good starting point is a primary blue paint such as Ultramarine Blue, which is a dark color close to navy blue, as your base color. The obvious choices are chromium oxide and sap green. ![]() As other post have mentioned before I would also suggest to have a “base” green from which you can produce landscape colours.
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